# Wind Chute Power Turbine
Sorry, but I don't have the exact specs and dimensions on this project, but it is here for you to dwell on.
### The Power Source
The next thing you need is an Alternator. You need the 65 amp GM alternator with a built in voltage regulator. It is critical that you only use an alternator that has a built in voltage regulator! If you make a mistake in the selection of the alternator you run a very high risk of damaging the battery by over charging.
Note:Your alternator must be a GM alternator with a built in voltage regulator! If an alternator that has a built in voltage regulator is used (and properly connected), the output voltage will increase until it reaches about 14 volts. That’s it. No matter how fast it is rotated, the output will never go above that value. This is the ideal charging voltage for a lead acid battery (a standard car battery). If you select this alternator, then there are 4 connections that must be made. The pins an a Delco-Remy 1100934 37A, 3D10 12VNEG alternator with built in voltage regulator: BAT: The main +12V output. This line connects directly to the "POS" terminal on the battery. GND: This is the negative terminal. Connects to the "NEG" terminal on the battery. F: This terminal is the voltage sense line for the alternator. Connect this directly to either the "POS" terminal on the battery, or the "BAT" terminal on the alternator. R: This terminal is the power for the internal regulator circuit. This line must be connected through a switch to either the "BAT" terminal on the alternator, or the "POS" terminal on the battery. This terminal will draw power from the battery any time the switch is on, so YOU MUST switch it off when the generator is not in use, or your battery will be discharged over time through this terminal. Another note: If you turn off the switch that goes to the "R" terminal. The alternator will "free wheel" with no load on the turbine. If the switch is on, the alternator will try to output voltage if there is a wind.
### Commentary The following commentary is from a group of booklets distributed to farmers in the 70's. "This particular unit works on a similar principle to ventilating rotors. It spins at very high speed and comparatively low torque, so it is often necessary to gear the alternator down, not gear it up as is desirable with a conventional windmill." "Basically the collector wings on the wind chute 'scoop the wind in' and blast it against the fins on the rotor, and the flared wings on the opposing side act as a venturi system to create a vacuum within the rotor chamber to draw the air blast through with greater force." "The unit is designed to sit at ground level and only turn within 180° radius. This means it collects wind from all directions and automatically aligns itself with the direction of the breeze. Alternators operate just as effectively in either direction, so a northerly breeze blowing the rotor in an opposite direction to a southerly breeze does not create any problems." "The wind chute is at ground level and does not require any special shaping or strengthening. The turbine rotor consists of straight wood or steel plates attached to a shaft. These fins do not require any special shaping or graduated curves." "The wind chute unit only turns within 180° radius or less, so you do not have to fabricate a special 'transfer ring' to accommodate the 360° turning and twisting as the conventional windmill moves around to line up with the breeze." "Speed power of the wind chute turbine is easy to control by simply fitting a sliding door to shut off wind going into the turbine chamber, and because the turbine is enclosed it is always safe."
# Wind Chute Turbine Water Pump
Sorry, but I don't have the exact specs and dimensions on this project, but it is here for you to dwell on.
### The Water Pump

Most windmill designs are geared to turn the pump at around 30-40 r.p.m. You will have to experiment to get the desired output from your turbine. Since the Wind Chute rotates 180 degrees you will need flexible hoses such as garden hose with plenty of slack so as not to restrict turning of the assembly. Some have suggested using a washing machine pump, but I don't know how reliable that would be. I would rather use an automotive water pump that could handle a higher r.p.m. because they are pretty much standardized and easily replaced, not to mention inexpensive.

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